Electric Cooker Installation: What an Electrician Actually Does (And What It Costs)

If you’re buying a new electric cooker and your kitchen doesn’t have a 32A circuit — or you’re not sure whether it does — you’ll need to understand what an electrician actually does and how much it should cost. Here’s the full breakdown for 2026.

First, Do You Actually Need a New Circuit?

Before you worry about costs, let’s establish what you’re working with:

• You have a cooker switch on the wall (the big red or grey switch, about twice the size of a normal socket) — you probably already have a 32A circuit. The electrician just needs to connect your new cooker to it. That’s a simple job taking 30–60 minutes.
• You have a cooker switch but no breaker labelled ‘Cooker’ at the consumer unit — the switch might be decorative or fed from the ring main. An electrician needs to verify this.
• There’s no cooker switch at all — only standard 13A sockets — you need a new circuit from scratch. This is a bigger job.

Not sure which camp you’re in? Our step-by-step guide will tell you in five minutes.

The Simple Job: Connecting to an Existing Circuit

If you already have a cooker isolator switch on the wall and a 32A (or larger) breaker in the consumer unit, this is the straightforward job.

What the electrician does:

1. Isolates the power at the consumer unit — locks off the cooker MCB
2. Runs the final connection cable — typically 6mm² heat-resistant (HS) flexible cable from the cooker isolator switch to the cooker’s connection point (which is usually a terminal block behind a small panel on the back of the appliance)
3. Fits a 45A double-pole switched connection unit if one isn’t already in place, or connects directly to the existing isolator
4. Connects the cooker — wiring the live, neutral, and earth to the correct terminals
5. Tests the installation — verifies correct polarity, earth continuity, and that the cooker operates properly on all functions
6. Completes a Minor Works Certificate — this documents the work and satisfies Part P requirements for a simple connection

Typical cost: £80–£150

This is a fixed-price job for most electricians. It covers their time, the connection cable, and the minor works certificate. It’s usually very straightforward unless the isolator is in an awkward position or the cable route is unusually long.

The Big Job: Installing a Brand New 32A Cooker Circuit

If there’s no existing circuit, this is a full installation. Expect the electrician to be on site for half a day to a full day.

What the electrician does:

1. Plans the cable route — from the consumer unit to the cooker location. This involves checking floor voids, ceiling spaces, and wall routes. The shortest route isn’t always the easiest.
2. Installs a new MCB in the consumer unit — usually 32A or 40A. If there are no spare ways in the consumer unit, they’ll need to fit a smaller unit or install a new consumer unit entirely (adds £150–£250).
3. Runs the cable — 6mm² or 10mm² twin-and-earth. The route depends on your property layout:
4. Under floorboards — lifting boards, drilling joists. The neatest option but labour-intensive.
5. Through loft space — if the consumer unit is upstairs and the kitchen is downstairs.
6. Clipped to wall surface — visible cable clipped to the wall, painted to match. The cheapest option but not the prettiest.
7. Chased into plaster — cutting a channel in the wall, running the cable, then replastering. The tidiest option but the messiest.
8. Fits a 45A double-pole cooker isolator switch at the wall — usually 300–450mm above worktop level, within easy reach but out of reach of small children
9. Connects the cooker with heat-resistant flex from the isolator to the appliance
10. Tests everything — continuity of ring and circuit conductors, polarity, earth fault loop impedance, insulation resistance. These tests ensure the circuit is safe and compliant with BS 7671.
11. Completes an Electrical Installation Certificate and notifies Building Control via a Competent Person Scheme

Typical cost: £300–£600

Do You Need Part P Notification?

Yes — installing a new cooker circuit is notifiable work under Part P of the Building Regulations. Your electrician must be registered with a Competent Person Scheme such as:

• NICEIC (National Inspection Council for Electrical Installation Contracting)
• NAPIT (National Association of Professional Inspectors and Testers)
• STROMA Certification
• ELECSA

A registered electrician will notify Building Control on your behalf after completing the work. You’ll receive a certificate confirming the installation complies with the regulations.

If you use an unregistered electrician (someone trading as self-employed but not on a scheme), you must notify the local authority Building Control yourself. This adds an inspection fee (typically £100–£200) and they may want to inspect the work, which can be inconvenient.

Always check your electrician’s credentials before they start work. Ask for their scheme registration number and verify it on the scheme’s website.

Can You Do It Yourself?

No. Installing a cooker circuit involves:

• Working inside the live consumer unit (where dangerous voltages exist even with the main switch off)
• Correctly calculating cable sizing based on load, length, and installation method
• Ensuring proper earth bonding to gas and water pipes
• Complying with BS 7671 (18th Edition) Wiring Regulations
• Completing the correct certification and Part P notification

Get it wrong and you risk electrical fire, fatal electric shock, or invalidating your home insurance. This is categorically not a DIY job — hire a qualified electrician.

Renter’s scenario: “I own my flat in Manchester but the kitchen only had a ring main and no cooker circuit. I got three quotes for a new 32A circuit. The first was £250 — very cheap, but the guy wasn’t registered with any scheme. The second was £480 from a NICEIC-registered firm, and the third was £650 from a well-known local company. I went with the middle one. They were here for about six hours, had to lift floorboards in two rooms, and plastered the chase afterwards. The certificate came through two weeks later. It was a hassle and a half, and I honestly wish I’d considered a 13A cooker first. It would have saved me the mess and the money.” — Sarah, Manchester

The 13A Alternative — No Electrician Needed

If £300–£600 for installation sounds steep (or if you’re renting and can’t modify the property), a 13A plug-in freestanding cooker is the obvious alternative.

Models from Beko, Indesit, and Hotpoint are designed to run on a standard 13A socket — no installation required. They use power management software to keep the total draw under 3,000W, which means you can use any normal socket in your kitchen.

What you get with 13A:

• Zero installation cost — plug it in and cook
• You own it — take it with you when you move
• No mess, no disruption — no chasing walls, no floorboards up, no plaster dust
• Lower upfront cost — many 13A models are £300–£400, same as installation alone

What you lose:

• Slightly smaller oven cavity (50cm vs 60cm wide)
• Hob power limited to around 2kW total (you can’t run all four rings at maximum simultaneously)
• No induction option (all 13A freestanding models use ceramic hobs)

For most households, these trade-offs are perfectly manageable. Our roundup of the best freestanding electric cookers for 2026 covers both 13A and 32A options so you can compare.

How to Choose an Electrician

Final Advice

If you’re a homeowner and planning to stay in your property long-term, installing a 40A or 45A circuit is a worthwhile investment that adds value to your home and gives you full flexibility on cooker choice. Budget around £400–£600 for the full job.

If you’re a renter, or if you’re on a tight budget, the 13A plug-in route makes far more sense. You avoid spending money on someone else’s property and you get a cooker you can take with you.

Compare gas vs electric cooker costs to see which fuel type makes sense for your situation before you commit to installation.